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Misty Mountain Hop

climbing adventures in Scotland and abroad

  • Latest Posts
  • Introduction
  • Photo Gallery
    • Mousetrap Creag an Dubh Loch
    • Pick Breaker Coire Kander
    • Fairhands and Grimsel Pass
    • A Beasting in Paklenica
    • Blistering Heat in El Chorro
    • Amethyst Pillar and Grey Slab
    • Halcyon Days on Haegefjell
    • Scottish Winter Greatest Hits
    • Cragging in Ardnamurchan
    • Hammer, Etive Slabs
    • Slochd Wall, Beinn a’ Bhuird
    • Hadrian’s Wall Direct, Ben Nevis
    • An Ice Surprise, Lurcher’s Crag
    • Judas Priest, Lochnagar
    • Dinosaur Pink Elephant, Creag an Dubh Loch
    • The Pause, Etive Slabs
    • Dubh Loch Monster, Creag an Dubh Loch
    • Sudgrat, Salbitschijen
    • Gripped for days in Rjukan
    • The Hoarmaster and The Message
    • Parallel Gully A, Lochnagar
    • King Rat, Creag an Dubh Loch
    • No. 6 Gully, Aonach Dubh
    • Deep Cut Chimney, Hell’s Lum
    • K9 and Window Gully, Lurcher’s Crag
    • Coronary Bypass, Coire an Lochain
    • Transept Groove, Lochnagar
    • Gorges du Verdon
    • The Sandpyper Direct, Stag Rocks
    • The Needle and The Pause
    • Winter-lite on Liathach and Beinn Bhan
    • Pygmy Ridge and Ewen Buttress
    • Dolomiti Super Summer
    • Costa del Diabaig
    • Ticks in the Glen, Polldubh Crags
    • Paradise in Patagonia
    • Sunny Curved Ridge, Icy White Line
    • West Buttress and George, Torridon
    • Centrist, Lochnagar
    • Savage Slit and Sidewinder, Lochain
    • Cyclops, Creag an Dubh Loch
    • Chamonix 2015 Trip Report
    • Pas de Friction in Font
    • Dividing Butress, Beinn a’Bhuird
    • Spartan Slab and Butterknife
    • Alpine on An Teallach
    • Winter Sun in Fontainebleau
    • Classic Ice on Ben Nevis
    • The Drool, Eagles Rock
    • Shadow Buttress B, Bells Route, Lochnagar
    • Fontainebleau trip report
    • Chamonix 2014 trip report
    • A precursory glance
    • Page header panoramas
  • Contact Me
  • Raspberry Pi Webserver
  • Latest Posts
  • Introduction
  • Photo Gallery
    • Mousetrap Creag an Dubh Loch
    • Pick Breaker Coire Kander
    • Fairhands and Grimsel Pass
    • A Beasting in Paklenica
    • Blistering Heat in El Chorro
    • Amethyst Pillar and Grey Slab
    • Halcyon Days on Haegefjell
    • Scottish Winter Greatest Hits
    • Cragging in Ardnamurchan
    • Hammer, Etive Slabs
    • Slochd Wall, Beinn a’ Bhuird
    • Hadrian’s Wall Direct, Ben Nevis
    • An Ice Surprise, Lurcher’s Crag
    • Judas Priest, Lochnagar
    • Dinosaur Pink Elephant, Creag an Dubh Loch
    • The Pause, Etive Slabs
    • Dubh Loch Monster, Creag an Dubh Loch
    • Sudgrat, Salbitschijen
    • Gripped for days in Rjukan
    • The Hoarmaster and The Message
    • Parallel Gully A, Lochnagar
    • King Rat, Creag an Dubh Loch
    • No. 6 Gully, Aonach Dubh
    • Deep Cut Chimney, Hell’s Lum
    • K9 and Window Gully, Lurcher’s Crag
    • Coronary Bypass, Coire an Lochain
    • Transept Groove, Lochnagar
    • Gorges du Verdon
    • The Sandpyper Direct, Stag Rocks
    • The Needle and The Pause
    • Winter-lite on Liathach and Beinn Bhan
    • Pygmy Ridge and Ewen Buttress
    • Dolomiti Super Summer
    • Costa del Diabaig
    • Ticks in the Glen, Polldubh Crags
    • Paradise in Patagonia
    • Sunny Curved Ridge, Icy White Line
    • West Buttress and George, Torridon
    • Centrist, Lochnagar
    • Savage Slit and Sidewinder, Lochain
    • Cyclops, Creag an Dubh Loch
    • Chamonix 2015 Trip Report
    • Pas de Friction in Font
    • Dividing Butress, Beinn a’Bhuird
    • Spartan Slab and Butterknife
    • Alpine on An Teallach
    • Winter Sun in Fontainebleau
    • Classic Ice on Ben Nevis
    • The Drool, Eagles Rock
    • Shadow Buttress B, Bells Route, Lochnagar
    • Fontainebleau trip report
    • Chamonix 2014 trip report
    • A precursory glance
    • Page header panoramas
  • Contact Me
  • Raspberry Pi Webserver
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Category Archives: Trad

Less Hesitation on The Pause, Etive Slabs

6 Jul
scottish summer rock climbing on the long reach etive slabs

Four years ago, Ric and I had a minor epic on The Pause (E1 5b), when we optimistically attempted it in damp conditions and then got lost on the psychologically taxing pitch 4. Terrifying stuff in fact. A rematch was … Read More »

Scottish Summer, Trad 1 Comment

Maximum Granite Weirdness on the Dubh Loch Monster

29 Apr
scottish summer rock climbing on dubh loch monster creag an dubh loch

The Scottish mountains under the spell of a spring high pressure system are a special place – within two weeks we had gone from icy gullies on Lochnagar to contemplating big rock routes on Creag an Dubh Loch. Could it … Read More »

Scottish Summer, Trad 1 Comment

Salbitchin’ on the Sudgrat

26 Sep
alpine summer rock climbing on the sudgrat salbitschijen

Following some great routes but mixed weather in the Grimsel Pass, the perfect window presented itself for a much bigger mountain objective. The famous Sudgrat of the Salbitschijen was the ideal target, with its 16 pitches offering 600m of golden granite … Read More »

Alpinism, Trad, Trips Leave a comment

It All Came Together on The Hoarmaster and The Message

22 Jan
scottish winter mixed climbing on the hoarmaster coire an lochain

When it all comes together there really is nowhere else I would rather be winter climbing than Scotland. Even if that does mean another trip to the ever-reliable Norries… Cold north-westerlies earlier in the week had rimed the buttresses facing … Read More »

Scottish Winter, Trad Leave a comment

More Than We Bargained For on Parallel Gully A, Lochnagar

21 Dec
scottish winter ice mixed climbing on parallel gully a lochnagar

It’s becoming a common theme that my first winter routes are getting later and later and more and more challenging conditions-wise. The start to this season has been characterized by short cold snaps and strong thaws and it was right after one … Read More »

Scottish Winter, Trad 2 Comments

Feeding the King Rat on Creag an Dubh Loch

13 Jul
scottish summer rock climbing on king rat creag an dubh loch

Life admin was making a day in the hills difficult and as the incredible run of hot, dry weather continued I began to get cabin fever. Thankfully, the amazing rock climbing conditions showed no sign of disappearing and with psyched … Read More »

Scottish Summer, Trad Leave a comment

Worth the Wait on Transept Groove, Lochnagar

18 Dec
scottish winter mixed climbing on judas priest lochnagar

The first routes of the season had been climbed at the start of November and despite the conditions getting better and better, prior commitments, injury and illness had prevented me from getting out to capitalise on them. With relentless social … Read More »

Scottish Winter, Trad 3 Comments

Full Value on The Sandpyper Direct

15 Jul
scottish summer rock climbing on the sandpyper direct stag rocks

Cool, breezy weather with some sun in prospect meant that the south-facing and quick-drying crags of Stag Rocks were a good choice last weekend. Despite the route’s reputation, The Sandpyper Direct (HVS), with its bold slab climbing and devious line … Read More »

Scottish Summer, Trad 2 Comments

It’s not over ’til it’s over – The Needle and The Pause

3 Jun
scottish summer rock climbing on the needle shelterstone crag

Following a long period of dry weather the hottest day of the year was forecast, warranting a day off from work to capitalise on the excellent mountain rock conditions. With recent ascents on the high north facing Shelterstone Crag confirming dry … Read More »

Scottish Summer, Trad Leave a comment

Dolomiti Super Summer

2 Sep
alpine summer rock climbing on the dibona arete tre cime in the dolomites

As good as the Mt Blanc massif is, four trips in a row seemed a bit much and so at last we got around to making a two week pilgrimage in August to the Dolomites. Managing to nail two of … Read More »

Alpinism, Trad, Trips 2 Comments

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Recent Posts

  • Mousetrap – Deja Vu on the Dubh Loch19 May 2025
  • Ripe for the Picking in Coire Kander11 January 2025
  • Fairhands and Fair Weather in the Grimsel Pass2 September 2024
  • A Beasting in Paklenica27 May 2024
  • Blistering Heat in El Chorro27 November 2023

Recent Comments

  1. Profile Picture For Dave
    Dave on A Gem of a Day on Amethyst Pillar and Grey Slab

    Thanks Iain, yeah it's a really long way in, totally worth it though. Definitely get Amethyst Pillar done! Cheers, Dave

  2. Profile Picture For Dave
    Iain Clark on A Gem of a Day on Amethyst Pillar and Grey Slab

    I did Grey slab in the eighties, a long approach, I still remember a difficult approach across snow to reach…

  3. Profile Picture For Dave
    Adam on Introduction

    It was nice to meet you both in Norway, if either of you ever need a belay in the South…

  4. Profile Picture For Dave
    Alasdair Fulton on Scottish Winter Greatest Hits

    Hi, good read - thanks for putting the effort in! Would it be possible to get a full-res copy of…

  5. Profile Picture For Dave
    Dave on Beating the Heat on Slochd Wall, Beinn a’ Bhuird

    Wow!

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