Blistering Heat in El Chorro

27 Nov

It’s always nice to prolong the summer with a last gasp of warm sun and dry rock before the winter really gets going in Scotland. This time the chosen venue was the sport climbing paradise of El Chorro, in the Andalusian hills north of Malaga. It was my third visit to the area, which offers a plethora of venues to suit all weathers and conditions as well as a huge amount of variety in the climbing, including plenty of multipitches. El Chorro itself sits to the south of the huge limestone ridge of Frontales, near the entrance of the famous gorge and the Caminito del Rey, and makes a good base from which to explore the area’s many crags.

A ridge of steep grey limestone cliffs above a green forest and river, with a railway cutting across and blue sky above
The south-facing cliffs of Frontales bathed in evening light. If only they weren’t such a furnace during the day…

 

A ridge of steep grey limestone cliffs cut by a deep gorge, above a green forest and river, with a bridge cutting across and blue sky above
The entrance to the gorge near El Chorro. The remnants of the famous Caminito del Rey can be seen at the entrance, along with the modern tourist-compatible walkway.

 

Climbing as a three, our modus operandi was quality rather than quantity, but this being Shaun’s first climbing trip abroad we knew an indoctrination (read: baptism of fire) on a classic multipitch was in order too. A more pressing concern, however, was the unseasonably hot weather; with temperatures in the high-twenties during the afternoons. Anything in the sun would be an unbearable grease-fest, so the majority of our time was spent on the high, north-facing cliffs of Desplomilandia and Poza de la Mona, where the conditions were perfectly pleasant.

A climber sport climbing on a limestone crack in southern Spain with hills and a lake in the background
You can take a trad climber out of Scotland… Managing to find a grotty jam crack amongst all the perfect limestone on Las gordas no dan resaca (6b) at Poza de la Mona. Photo credit: Ric Hines

 

A climber sport climbing on a limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above
Ric on the superb Laguna Betiko (6b) at Poza de la Mona, just about to tackle the crux layback.

 

A climber sport climbing on a limestone crack in southern Spain with blue sky above
Shaun approaching the hanging off-width crack on Ras Cubano (6a) at Poza de la Mona – a stiff proposition for the grade!

 

Poza de la Mona is a brilliant crag for hot days and the lefthand sector contains a fine selection of routes in the low-mid sixes. The rock is vertical, but highly featured with generous holds. This combined with the modest pitch lengths and generous bolting creates a friendly atmosphere – ideal for our first day.

A landscape view of hot plains, olive groves and trees, with a blue sky and reservoir. A road with a bend is in the foreground.
Contrasting scenes – the view from a cool Buena Sombra to the sun-baked plains and depleted reservoir north of Desplomilandia

 

The next day we headed to Buena Sombra, a crag with multiple 3* and “Top 50” routes in the sixes and sevens. With 35m pitches on orange and grey walls, combining pocketed slabs, bulges and steep jug-hauling, the routes here felt like a different proposition, but were much more rewarding because of it.

A climber sport climbing on a grey and orange limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above
Ric on the pocketed slab of Sin Mantenimiento (6a) at Buena Sombra. Balancy moves between spaced bolts makes for engaging climbing!

 

A climber sport climbing on a grey and orange limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above
Shaun on the crux slab moves of Debora Cuerpos (6b) at Buena Sombra. This route has a tough fingery boulder problem to start, a beautiful slab in the middle and steep jugs to finish – top stuff! Photo credit: Ric Hines

 

A climber sport climbing on a grey and orange limestone cliff in southern Spain with no hands on the rock
A wholly-unnecessary no-hands rest at the crux on Debora Cuerpos. Photo Credit: Shaun Hogan

 

Having got our eye in, it now felt appropriate to embark on an adventure up the huge cliffs of Frontales. Amptrax (6a) was the natural choice being of (apparently) amenable grade, amenable length and of high quality – an ideal first multipitch for Shaun. We’d heard rumours of polished holds, poor stances and sustained technical climbing with a whiff of sandbaggery, but chose to ignore them. We were more concerned with the heat, but how bad could that really be?

A climber sport climbing on the first pitch of a route called Amptrax on a limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above
Ric reaches the chains on the first proper pitch of Amptrax as the sun hits us – it’s gonna be hot one! Photo credit: Shaun Hogan

 

We started early(ish) thinking we could get up most of the route before it got properly hot, but the sun caught us during the first real pitch and it only got harder. (The guidebook “pitch 1” really is an easy scramble and we shouldn’t have wasted time getting geared up for it). The first five pitches are very sustained but at least they are short. While it would be possible to run some pitches together the grade would need to be adjusted up accordingly. Thankfully, the climbing is so good and the rock so immaculate that the heat and difficulty only really made themselves apparent at the belay stances (which are cramped, sloping and uncomfortable, especially as a party of three).

A climber sport climbing on the third pitch of a route called Amptrax on a limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above
Ric beginning the first of the 6a pitches – steep, polished and slopey, but thankfully short! Photo credit: Shaun Hogan

 

We block led in the interests of efficiency but with three people, two 60m ropes and 20m pitches we ended up spending more time at the belays than climbing! We ran out of water around the traverse pitch but the climbing and exposure was so fantastic that we didn’t mind too much. Shaun seemed to enjoy his first big route and took the exposure and difficulty in his stride. He even sacrificed a quickdraw to gravity to preserve the on-sight – full commitment!

A climber sport climbing on the fifth pitch of a route called Amptrax on a limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above and green trees below
Halfway across the 20m traverse on pitch 5 of Amptrax – a spectacular section with plenty of exposure and lots of hidden holds. Photo credit: Shaun Hogan

 

At the belay after the traverse I slipped my blistered heels out of my rock shoes, despite the precarious sloping shelf I was standing on. Then, to my horror, as I shuffled over to make room for Shaun, a rock shoe caught on a spike, slipped off my foot and free-fell straight to the base of the route! Thankfully the difficulty eased off above and I was able to second the remaining pitches in one approach shoe and one rock shoe with minimum drama. After topping out and descending off the back, we walked round to the base of the route to retrieve the shoe, finding it easily and with very little damage!

A climber sport climbing on a grey and orange limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above
Ric on the tricky mid-height bulge on Yocare (6b) at La Vida Misma. This whopper of a pitch packs in a lot of styles in its 35m length, while never feeling particularly hard.

 

The next day we celebrated success with breakfast outside the villa on the terrace, in our pyjamas. It was all rather pleasant, until I locked us out without our phones. Some drama ensued, but thankfully a kind person leant us a phone and our hosts arrived to rescue us. I still got 5 stars on AirBnB too!

The following days were spent in the shade at a more leisurely pace, back at the crags of La Vida Misma and Buena Sombra, where we cruised up mellow (and some not so mellow) sixes. Everything felt like a bonus after Amptrax!

A climber sport climbing on a grey and orange limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above and green hill and a lake behind
A climber on the impressive line of Sandokan (7c) at La Vida Misma

 

A climber sport climbing on a grey and orange limestone cliff in southern Spain with blue sky above and green hill and a lake behind
Shaun pulling out of the groove on the classic Wifi (6a+) at La Vida Misma. This route had plenty of tricky climbing above slightly spaced bolts, making it feel like a bit of a sandbag! Photo credit: Ric Hines

 

A landscape of barren plains, olive groves and a depleted reservoir at sunset
Gorgeous evening hues and shadows spreading across the plains and olive groves north of Desplomilandia. Having most days end in this fashion wasn’t exactly a hardship!

 

So despite the heat, blistered heels, ejected shoes and disgruntled hosts, we’d still had a superb trip. This sport climbing stuff just might catch on you know!

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